Location Review
Zermatt: Valais Region of Switzerland

BY MARTIN REECE MBE ARPS

Zermatt may be unknown to some of you. It is predominantly known for mountaineering and skiing and it is a beautiful rustic alpine village which has grown over the years due to its popularity for summer and winter holidays. Located at the head of the Matter valley at an altitude of 1,620m (5,314 ft), the mountain scenery is some of the best you will find anywhere in the world. If you have never heard of Zermatt, you will all be aware of its main claim to notoriety, an instantly recognisable landmark and probably the most photographed mountain in the world, the Matterhorn. The Matterhorn is 4,478m (14,690ft) high and was first climbed in 1865 by the English climber Edward Whymper. Since that time, many have climbed this peak although many fail with tragic consequences as the village cemetery testifies. Recently a mountain guide climbed the north face in 4 hours and then skied down.

Martin Reece, Memorial, Zermatt (2006)

The village of Zermatt has approximately 5,000 inhabitants and access is by the narrow gauge railway, as Zermatt is a car free resort. There are many hotels of all standards and if you stay in either the five star Mont Cervin Hotel or the Zermatterhof Hotel you will be met at the station and transported by a traditional horse-drawn stagecoach. The horses gallop up the main street cutting a dash which gets everyone’s attention. For those of us who stay in more meagre accommodation, you will either walk to your hotel or hire one of the electric taxis, which are like milk floats that dart around the resort. There are a reasonable number of quality shops, cafes, bars and restaurants. Even McDonalds has arrived, however, the fast food outlet is styled in the strictly controlled traditional alpine style. The only way you would know it was a McDonalds is by the illuminated M sign of the company’s well known corporate logo.

Martin Reece, 5-Star-Travel, Zermatt (2006)

Visitors come to Zermatt to be able to view the high mountains and there are various means of getting higher up into the Alps, such as the famous Gornergrat Mountain Railway which takes you up to a height of 3,100 m where there is a hotel and restaurant. The highest point reached by public transport is by the Klein Matterhorn Cable Car that takes you over the Theodul glacier at a height of 3,883 m. At this height you start to feel the effects of altitude so, as you climb up to the observation platform, you have to take your time because of the thinning air. The views, however, are stunning and give a stunning panorama of the Swiss, French and Italian Alps with many mountains over 4000 m high, including Mt Blanc, the highest mountain in Europe.

Martin Reece, Alpine Panorama, Zermatt (2006)

There are many other cable cars, chair lifts and a funicular railway that whisk you ever upwards or if you feel energetic you can walk. Once you arrive in the high mountains there are many easy walks that are well signposted and numerous mountain huts where you can get high quality food and drink. Many people walk and then sit gazing in awe at the Matterhorn and then take a few photographs. Some say that Kodak and Fuji have shares in the mountain! If you are lucky, you may see the famous St Bernard mountain dogs complete with brandy barrel around their necks. These are a Swiss tradition of times gone by when they were famous for rescuing lost and stranded people. The Matterhorn is visible from everywhere. However, it looks very different as you view it from differing aspects, especially from the Italian side. I guarantee you would not recognise it as the Matterhorn, which is known as Mt Cervino in Italy.

Martin Reece, St-Bernard-Dogs, Zermatt (2006)

The busiest time of the year in Zermatt is the winter ski season although it is possible to ski all year up on the high glaciers. In the wintertime, when Zermatt has its winter coat on, the scenery is turned in to a winter wonderland, although you do not have to ski to take advantage of the scenery as many mountain paths are cleared especially for the walkers and many visitors come just to walk and take in the scenery and the clean air as well as the après ski. For skiing, some say that Zermatt is the best Ski Resort in the world. Many famous celebrities come to ski in Zermatt along with visitors from all over the world. It is possible to ski in three different areas and also ski over the border into Italy for a Pasta lunch, so you need to have your passport with you.

Martin Reece, Above-the-clouds, Zermatt (2006)

One of my favourite things is to enjoy a meal at one of the many famous mountain restaurants, some of which can only be reached on skis. Picture this: in the middle of winter sitting outside in glorious sunshine enjoying a good meal, a beer, and the wonderful scenery.

A few years ago I had the pleasure to meet the most famous person in Zermatt, a senior mountain guide called Ulrich Inderbinen who was born in Zermatt in 1900. Ulrich climbed the Matterhorn some 370 times, the last time being at the grand age of 90, which is a record not likely to be beaten. He died in 2004 at the age of 104, which was testament to mountain life as he very rarely left his beloved Zermatt and lived a simple life without a telephone or television. He was a man of few words, known for his modesty and dry wit. In his autobiography “As Old as the Century”, there is a famous story which highlights the humour of the man. When asked why he was carrying two pairs of skis, he retorted that one pair belonged to his elderly father who was coming behind him. At this time Ulrich was over 90! It is also quoted that he was bought a pair of new Skis for his 90th birthday. I have a signed monochrome portrait of him on my lounge wall, which was produced to celebrate his 100th birthday. Also to celebrate his 100th birthday, a statue was unveiled in Zermatt to highlight his achievements.

Martin Reece, Ulrich-Inderbinen, Zermatt (2006)

Switzerland is famous for it railways and Swiss precision, which means that the trains run on time. Even major snowfalls do not hinder normal operation. The modern trains traverse the mountainsides through tunnels and over bridges; nothing is an obstacle for the Swiss Railways where the railway engineering is legendary. Travel by Swiss Railways is a pleasure with many famous routes; one of the best railway journeys is the famous Glacier Express that takes you on a journey from St Moritz to Zermatt. It takes 10 hours, not the quickest journey in the world, but definitely the most breathtaking.

Why not visit www.zermatt.ch and look at the various webcams, which are located in various parts of the village as well as on the mountaintops. You will them see why I return to Zermatt time after time to ski and walk. Information on Switzerland is available from www.myswitzerland.com, the official site of the Swiss Tourist Board.

If you decide to visit Zermatt you will not be disappointed. It is great for landscape photography and alpine flower photography. You can fly from Liverpool to Geneva with Easyjet and then take a scenic 4 hour rail journey that takes you along the banks of Lake Geneva, then along the Rhone Valley to Brig where you change trains to the narrow gauge railway of the Matterhorn/Gothard Railway for Zermatt. Travel throughout Switzerland is very easy using the Swiss integrated transport systems.

Martin Reece, Gornergrat-Cog-Railway, Zermatt (2006)

As Switzerland is famous for its chocolate, you will no doubt be tempted to sample it, especially the famous chocolate bar in the shape of the Matterhorn; the Toblerone. There are many other famous things you can buy like Swiss Army Knives, Swiss Watches and even Cow Bells.

The images with this article were taken in January 2006 and will give you an example of what Zermatt is like. If you would like to see more, I will be giving a lecture later this month (24th February) at the Heswall Camera Club.

Martin Reece, Matterhorn from Findeln, Zermatt (2006)

Martin Reece, The Author, Zermatt (2006)

Please send any comments to Martin